One can become familiar with Vis from many directions and in many ways: swimming in the magnificent coves, going on a gastro tour of domestic specialties, seeing it from the air by paragliding, sailing on the falkuša- a traditional fishing boat of Komiža…
But one can also become acquainted with the island through the underground, through the military tunnels, passages, war bases, caves that had their place in our history. It is all actually inheritance of the former Yugoslav army which during the 80s of the past century went on here continually drilling, building and improving their bases. An important military rule is valid to this day: he who holds Vis in his hands holds the entire Adriatic. This is why Vis, one way or the other, was always a military base experiencing this from the Second World War up to the 90s of the past century. Then the doors of isolation opened to the world.
– What had been a minus for us, we then changed into a plus, years of being closed where the former army ruled over the island along with its powerful machinery, making holes in the island for its military facilities, we turned into a tourist attraction. The military legacy of a certain time is very interesting to people, and we make it possible for small groups of adventurers to visit during a four-hour military tour in jeeps. Many foreigners come, yachtsmen, people who have spent their military service on Vis, domestic people. They are intrigued by the remains of the former military regime – says PinoVojković, owner and director of the Vis tourist agency “Alternatura”, guide on the tours, town counsellor, member of the Mountain rescue service.
Good sneakers, a helmet and a lamp
What you need to familiarize with military Vis is a good pair of sneakers, while at the very start the organizer equips you with a helmet and lamp. And these are really necessary while you go through the military tunnels such as the 200 metre-long Vela glava that extends throughout the entire mountain. Even though completely devastated and plundered, it is impressive due to the fact that it can have 300 people in it. And its opening is larger than in the other tunnels for the part next to the entrance was intended for a military hospital with space for bunker beds for the wounded.
– Vis has an immeasurable strategical function because it has been dug out with tunnels like Swiss cheese. It had bases on all four sides, army barracks for Russian missiles, cannons, tanks, air force. There are hundreds of tunnels, 16 bases, piles of work that the Yugoslav army left behind it. When it retreated and the tunnels became accessible to the public, people were shocked by the force they saw. We can say that Vis was the first defence station from the Greeks to the present day, with one more existing base, the military watchtower in Hum connected with the NATO system. All that history that lived here, all those numerous stories are actual even now and are very interesting to the guests of our tours. The only thing that grieves me is that during the years of the Yugoslav army retreat there was no security service and it was all devastated so that there is nothing left in the tunnels. There is not even an electricity cable. Once the floors were so well taken care of and clean that one could literally have eaten on them – says Vojković.
Canon and missile base
The tour to the underground starts from Komiža or Vis, and the first station is Cape Stupišće, were the former cannon and missile base were located with a labyrinth of underground tunnels, remains of cannons and abandoned warehouses. Then the tour of Ravno, Podšpilja and Culture Homefollows, bearing the story of vineyards, once the exceptionally important activity of the people of Vis. Vela glava is visited, the place wherethe Headquarter centre of the entire region was situated up to the 90s, and Hum, where the army is located even today. A paragliding aerodrome is located there today, and besides enjoying the view of courageous modern Icaruses, the view of Komiža and the archipelago is a marvellous sight. One of the obligatory stations is Tito’s cave where important history took place during the Second World War.
– Visitors have a chance to see the sea passage Jastog in Parja Cove, built in the 80s of the past century and hear many stories on this mysterious island which had been secretive for a long time even for its inhabitants. Who knows how much there still is to discover in its underground – says Pino Vojković.
Centar za sportski turizam
The main character of “Alternature” is fighting a lion’s battle to revitalize the island, from numerous projects that are slowly being realized, the arrangement of an airport from the Second World War is to be emphasized. The intention is to build a centre for sports tourism there. Thus Vis would be included in the chain of small airports such as those ofUnije, Lošinj, and Sinj. There is another falkuša boat, a third one that has been included in the tourist arrangement and the building of new ones is in plan … there are many projects, and in front of them there is a big catchword – penso positivo…
– Or, think positive. With all this grief and sorrow, crisis, island isolation we shall not complain. Let that be done by the lazy for they are many and numerous. There is plenty of work for those who wish to work and want to make something for this island. Pensopositivo – says Pino Vojković.
